TT 518 
.P7 
Copy 1 



Pratt Institute 

DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC ART 

Harriet S. Sackett, Director 



DRESSMAKING COURSE 

SECOND GRADE NOTES 



BROOKLYN, N. Y. 

January, 1903 



Copyright, 1903, 
BY Harriet S. Sackett 



Pratt Institute, 

DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC ART 
Harriet S. Sackett, Director 



f<tyx.^--&-i<LJl^-^_,- 



DRESSMAKING COURSE 



SECOND GRADE NOTES 






BROOKLYN, N. Y. 

January, 1903 



Copyright, 1903, 
BY Harriet S. Sackett 



IHh L.bU'AKV OF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copies Received 

FEB n 1903 

Copyright Entry 
CLASS C^ XXc. No 

S ^ J o i4- 

COPY B. 



?1 



^ 



DRESSMAKING NOTES. 



DRAUGHTING WAI^KING SKIRTS. 

Measurements.— The measures required for draughting skirts 
are lengths and hips. The length measures are taken from the 
waist line to the floor, in the centre of the front and back and over 
the hips. The hip measure i^ taken all around from 5 to 6 inches 
below the waist line, and 2 inches are deducted to allow for the 
fullness in the back. 

SKIRT WITH SEVEN GORES. 

Front Breadth.— Draw line A i inch from the edge of the 
paper the required length of the skirt. At the top of this draw 
line B, and at the bottom, line C, both at right angles to line A. 
From 5 to 6 inches below line B, draw line D for hip line, parallel 
to line B. Measure from line A on line D the given width of 
front at the hip (referring to the table of skirt measures). 
Measure on line C the given width of front at the bottom (refer- 
ring to the table of skirt measures). Draw line K through these 
points, continuing to line B. Make line E the length of line A, 
taking off the extra length at the bottom of the front. Measure 
from line E on line B from >4 to ^ of an inch, according to waist 
measure, for curve over hip. Slope from the point on line B to 
the intersection of D and E. Measure below line B on line A }^ 
inch for curve in the center of the front, and draw curved line to 
the intersection of lines B and E. 

First Side Gore.— Draw lines A, B, C and D the same as for 
the front breadth, referring to the table of measures for width at 
hip and at bottom of gore. Draw line E through these points, 
continuing to line B. Measure on this line the given length of 
skirt, and draw a curved line for the bottom of the side gore. 



4 

Measure from line A on line B from >^ to ^ of an inch for curve 
over the hip. Slope from the point on B to the intersection of 
lines A and D. Measure from line E on line B from i to i>^ 
inches, and slope from this point to a point 4 inches below line B 
on line E. 

Second Side Gore.— Draw lines A, B, C, D and E the same as 
for front and first side gore, referring to table for width at hip and 
at bottom of gore. Measure from line A on line B from i to ij^ 
inches, and slope from this point to a point 4 inches below line B 
on line A. Measure from line E on line B Yz inch, and slope from 
this point to the intersection of lines D and E. 

Gored Back. — Draw lines A, B and C the same as for front 
and side gores. Measure on line B the width of back at the top, 
and on line C the width at the bottom (referring to the table of 
measures). Draw line E through these points, continuing to line 
B. Measure line E the given length of skirt, and draw a new 
curv^ed line for bottom of back breadth. Line D is omitted on the 
back breadth. 

SKIRT WITH CIRCUI^AR SIDB GORB. 

The front is draughted in the usual way. For side gore draw 
lines A, B, C and D as usual. Measure on line D the correct size 
of hip. Measure on line C the correct width for bottom of gore 
(referring to the table of measures). Draw line E through these 
points, raising it i^ inches above line B. Draw a new line B, 
curving from the i^ inch point to line A. Measure line E and 
mark at given length of skirt. Draw a curved line D parallel to 
line B. Draw a new line C for bottom ot skirt, curving it from 
line A through point on line E to the required width of skirt. 
Draw a new line E from this point through point on line D, con- 
necting 1)4 inch point on curve B. Measure from line A on 
curved hne B from 3^ to ^ of an inch, and slope from this point 
to the intersection of A and D. 

To Place Dart in Top of Circular Side Gore. — Divide curved 
line B and line D in half. Place the skirt rule on the points in 
order to get the correct slant for the dart, and mark 4 inches below 
curved line B for the length of the dart. Measure from ^ to i^ 



inches each side of the point on curved line B, according to waist 
measure, and draw curved Hues to the point 4 inches below. 

Raising the gores at the top gives more flare at the bottom of 
the skirt. The gores can be raised at the top according to the 
prevailing styles. 



FIVE-GORE) SKIRT. 
TABivE OF m:^asure;s. 



Hip. 


Front. 


Gore. 


B4CK. 


15 


4-7 




ri-27 


6-20 


16 


4-7 




12-28 


6-21 


17 


4-7 




13-29 


6-2 1 


18 


4-7 




14-30 


6-2 2 


19 


43^- 


-8 


14)^-31 


6-23 


20 


^%- 


-8 


i5>^-32 


7-24 


21 

22 


4^- 


-8 
-8 


i6>^-33 

17^-34 


7-25 
7-25 


23 


5-9 




18-35 


7-25 


24 


5-9 




19-35 


8-25 


25 


5-9 




20-35 


8-25 



SEVEN-GORB SKIRT. 
TABI,E OF M:eASUR:eS. 



Hip. 


Fron 


T. 


1ST Gore. 


2D Gore. 


Back. 


15 


4-7 




5-12 


6-15 


e-20 


16 


4-7 




5^-13 


6>^-i5 


6-20 


17 


4-7 




6-13 


7-16 


6-21 


18 


4-7 




6>^-i4 


7>^-i6 


6-21 


19 


\%- 


-8 


6>^-i4 


8-17 


6-22 


20 


A%- 


-8 


7-15 


8>4-i7 


7-23 


21 


\%- 


-8 


7>^-i5 


9-17 


7-24 


22 


\%- 


-8 


8-15 


9>^-i8 


7-25 


23 


5-9 




8-15 


10-18 


8-25 


24 


5-9 




85^-16 


101^-19 


8-25 


25 


5-9 




9-16 


11-20 


8-25 



The following suggestions are given as a guide for inaking a 
table of skirt measures, as the fashion changes : 

Should the hip measure be 20 inches, divide it into three parts, 
making the width of front and gores, at the top and bottom of the 
skirt according to the style worn. If the front breadth is very 
narrow at the hip line, not more than 4 inches, 16 inches remain 
for the gores. As the hip measure is always omitted on the back 
breadth, this amount can be divided, having either the first or 
second gore the wider, as desired. In order to keep the gores in 
good proportion, the difference in width at the hip should not be 
more than i}4, inches. 

For a five-gore skirt, the hip measure is divided into two parts, 
front and side gore. The gores should be wide enough at the 
bottom to make the lines in the skirt slope well toward the back: 

Remarks on Draughting Skirts. — The flare of a skirt must 
be regulated in regard to its length as well as to the size of hip. 
Short shirts should flare less in proportion to size of hip than long 
skirts. For large figures the front breadth of skirts should be 
broader at the hip line, that is, goring the front less than for a 
medium-sized figure. This allows for the extra width which is 
needed more in the front than at the hip, and prevents the skirt 
from drawing up in front. 

CUTTING SKIRTS. 

To Cut I/inings. — The skirt can be cut from pattern previously 
draughted, or can be draughted directly on the lining. Fold the 
lining lengthwise, using the fold for center of front breadth. To 
cut the side gores, fold the two ends of the lining together, and 
place the straight side of gore to the selvedge of lining, with the 
broadest part at the cut end. Cut the larger gores first and invert 
the second gores, and cut from the same width. 

Facings. — Canvas or haircloth, 2 yds., cut 6 to 8 ins. wide. 
Velveteen % yd., cut 2)4. ins. wide, straight or bias. 
Braid, 4 or 5 yds. 

The canvas or haircloth is stitched to lining and placed between 
lining and dress goods. When light-weight dress goods are used, 
the canvas or haircloth is placed on the inside of skirt and covered 



with a facing of the dress goods, silk or farmer's satin. Lap the 
edges of the haircloth and cover with strips of lining stitched on 
both edges. 

To Cut Material for Skirt.— After the lining is cut, place 
each breadth with the straight side on the lengthwise of the 
material and cut the same size. The front breadth is cut double 
with the fold of the goods in the center of the front. If there is 
any nap to the goods, be sure to have it run down. With figures 
or an up and down stripe, have the figures run up toward the top 
of the skirt. If velvet is used, the nap must run up. In cutting 
material for godet back, care must be taken to have a straight 
thread running through the center of the back. 

Basting.— Place each piece with the wrong side of goods to 
wrong side of lining and baste carefully on the right side to keep 
material smooth. Pin seams evenly together, beginning at top, 
and baste in traced lines. 

Fitting Skirts. — First pin corresponding seams of skirt to- 
gether, and trace a line )4 inch from top of skirt for seam for belt. 
Measure from this line to the bottom of skirt at centre of front 
breadth, at front and side seams and center of back the required 
length of skirt and mark. For large hips, allow yi inch at front 
seam, and y. inch at side seam. Trace a good line through these 
points, turn at traced line and baste for bottom of skirt. Try on 
the skirt and take up or let out seams or darts, to allow skirt to 
fit smoothly over hips. Seams should run parallel with lines of 
figure. 

Finishing Skirts.— Belts: Cut the material lY^. inches and 
the lining i inch wide, and the required length of waist measure, 
with 3 inches added to allow for making and for lap at the back. 
Stitch together at upper edge and turn, making the lower edges 
even, and stitch again at the top. Baste the skirt to the Hning of 
belt, gathering or pleating the back breadths into about a 2-inch 
space, leaving the fly of the placket plain for 2 inches. Try on, 
and if right stitch on the belt and turn the material over to cover 
the stitching, and hem down and stitch again. Sew hooks and 
eyes to belt to fasten around the waist, also to fasten to waist. 
Place loops on belt. 



Velveteen. — Velveteen may be sewed on by hand at the 
turned edge, then turned and basted from the right side to show 
as a piping, and hemmed down on the wrong side. Use twist or 
strong cotton to hem down the velveteen, as it has hard wear and 
stitches soon break away. 

Velveteen may also be sewed on by first cutting the skirt ^ 
inch below bottom line, carefully basting velveteen and stitching. 
Turn the edge and baste and finish, same as above. 

Pressing. — All seams should be carefully pressed on the wrong 
side with an iron not too hot, especially in woolen materials which 
require much pressing to make them lie very flat. It the material 
has been sponged, the seams may be slightly dampened and 
pressed ; otherwise the moisture that comes from the iron is suffi- 
cient. With seams in silk, only the point of the iron should be 
used. The iron should not remain on the seam until the moisture 
is all dried, but be lifted off, and allow the seam to dry in the air, 
to prevent its glossing. Haircloth or linen canvas for the bottom 
of skirts should be dampened and pressed before using to prevent 
its shrinking after the gown has been w^orn. The bottom of 
woolen skirts should be carefully pressed after they are finished. 



WAIST AND SI/l^BVB. 

Cutting:.— Place each part of the pattern on the lining with the 
waist lines running straight with the woof threads. If desired to 
have the French dart more bias, the front may be swung back i 
inch at the waist line. First place the front, as it is usually the 
largest piece, with its lower edge coming at the end of lining, 
then place the other pieces as they will cut out to best advantage 
remembering to keep waist lines on woof thread. Place the 
sleeve with the warp threads running straight from the top to 
elbow, as these are the stronger threads, and have the grain of 
the upper and under parts of the sleeve the same at the inside 
seam. 

Material.— Place each part with the grain of the material the 
same as the lining. In this way the material and lining will 
stretch the same way and avoid wrinkles. There is one exception 
to this rule which is to be observed when the material is loosely 



9 

woven and inclined to stretch at the seams and show the lining. 
Instead of cutting lining with waist line on woof thread, cut with 
the same on warp thread. As these are the stronger threads, the 
material will be prevented from stretching. 

Basting I/ining and Material together.— Begin by basting 
through the waist line of each piece with hning on top, then in 
the 2 inch hue above full the lining between this line and waist 
line }i to }4 inch, according to the elasticity of material. In the 
same way, baste the 2 inch Hne below waist hne, fulling the Uning 
the same amount. After the waist hues are basted, baste j{ inch 
inside the traced lines. x\t neck, arm-scye, and hem of front, 
baste in the tracings. The front requires extra fulling at shoulder 
to allow the lining to full into hollow of shoulder, and hold mate- 
rial straight. Besides fulling lining up and down between the 
French dart and under-arm seam, it is fulled across the same 
amount. This part of the waist is on the bias and will admit of 
extra fulling. The value of fulling is that it may fit into the 
curve of the figure, and hold the material straight, and also allow 
for the difference in the elasticity of dress goods and lining. 

Basting I^ining and Material of Sleeve together.— Baste the 

elbow line first, and from elbow line to hand. Basting }{ inch 
inside the traced lines. In a full sleeve the upper has the required 
fullness allowed in width and length, which should be held in 
place and basted ^ inch inside of traced lines. The space meas- 
ured around the top about ij^ inches above inside seam of sleeve 
and 2 inches above outside seam is gathered to give the fullness 
on the top of the sleeve. 

Basting Seams of Sleeve together.-Begin with the inside 
seam, and baste from the elbow line to top, and from elbow line 
to bottom, stretching the upper to fit smoothly over the forearm. 
Before basting the outside seam, pin carefully together, so it will 
lie perfectly flat with the extra fullness of the upper gathered into 
a space i inch above and i^. inch below elbow line. 

Basting Seams of Waist.-Begin at waist line and baste up on 
all seams except darts, which are basted from the top down. The 
basting must be exactly on the tracing on both sides of the seams. 



lO 

In basting shoulder seam, the front must be stretched to back to 
fit smoothly over hollow of shoulder. 

Fitting Waists.— Put the waist on with seams inside. The 
curved, side, under-arm and shoulder seams must turn toward the 
front, and darts toward the back. Begin at the chest line and pin 
carefully down the entire front, having waist lines meet exactly to 
keep the waist straight. FirsMook at the darts, and either raise 
or lower them as required. The top of darts must come just 
below the curve of the bust. If shoulders require any change, 
open the seams, draw front and back to place and pin. Begin at 
center of shoulder and stretch the front to back. If too loose 
across chest, it is best in most cases to place the front shoulders 
at neck enough below the back to correct it, if the height of neck 
will permit ; if not, change the curve of front. If too tight across 
front, alteration can be made at under-arm seam and curve of 
front. 

If too large or too small around waist, make the required 
changes usually in back, side and under-arm seam. Be careful 
to keep the pieces in good proportion. The under-arm should be 
at least a quarter of an inch wider at waist line than the side form. 
When making these changes, the length of waist may be correct- 
ed, if necessary. In some cases the waist has been taken up too 
much on the shoulder and that is the cause of the waist being too 
short. If so, open the shoulder and lower the waist to the proper 
place. The line on the back of arm-scye must be perfectly 
straight from shoulder to side seam, in order to make the back 
look well, and the sleeve fit at top. 

Wrinkles at the back near the neck are often due to the center 
back being too long from [neck to waist line ; or the shoulder 
seams have been taken in too much or sloped too much ; especially 
if the shoulders are very square, such wrinkles may also be caused 
by the shoulder seams not having been notched in the center. 
Wrinkles around the neck are caused by the collar being too tight 
for the dress neck. If a waist draws to one side, it is because the 
center back seams or front were not joined evenly. A common 
error in waists is the crosswise wrinkles in the under-arm piece. 
The reason for this is that the front of the side form, instead of 
being held a trifle full, was stretched to the under-arm piece. 



II 

Fitting Sleeves.— Draw the sleeve well up on the arm with 
elbow in right position, being careful to have it long enough from 
elbow to arm-scye. If too large, usually take in on the inside 
seam, and if too small, let out at outside seam. The inside seam 
of sleeve must be kept well to inside of arm. If inclined to come 
too far forward, take from under part from hand to elbow. To 
find the part of arm-scye where the sleeve is to be inserted, take 
a true bias from the first dart, or measure from two to two and a 
half inches forward of the under-arm seam, and place the inside 
seam of sleeve on this mark, being careful not to have the seam 
show from the front when elbow is bent. Outside seam should 
be near side seam of waist. The fullness at the top of sleeve 
should be distributed from about two inches above the inside seam 
of sleeve to the curved seam in waist, placing the greatest amount 
of fullness in a space of about three inches in the top of the 
shoulder, directly above elbow and forward of shoulder seam. 
Hold waist toward you in basting in under part of sleeve, to make 
a good curve, and sleeve toward you for upper part, in order to 
regulate the gathers properly. Never put plaits or gathers in the 
under part of sleeve. 

Finishing Inside of Waist.— x\fter waist has been fitted and 
stitchcil, trim seams Y^ inch wide, except underarm seam which 
should be left i inch wide, notching at waist line and 2 inches above 
and below on all seams except curved seams, which are notched 
three times above waist line to make them lie flat. Press seams 
from top to waist line, in order to curve seam at that part. Bind 
seams with seam binding. The bone casings of Prussian binding 
are run on a little full with pocket at top. Bias strips of the 
lining may also be used. 

The casing on the back seam extends 6 inches above waist 
line ; on curved seams 5 inches above waist line ; on the side and 
under-arm seams 2^2 inches from arm-scye ; darts % inch from 
top, for a long waist, 3 inches below waist line. Fasten in the 
bones at three places ; at bottom of waist, and 3 inches above, 
springing them between these points and i^ inches from the top. 
In a long waist that comes below the waist line, fasten i inch 
from the bottom. 

After the seams are bound, featherbone may _ be used in place 



12 

of whalebone. It is stitched on through the center of the bone on 
one side of the seam. 

Cutting and Making Collar.— In all cases, a pattern of the 
size and style of collar to be used should be draughted. The 
foundation can be of stiff collar canvas or two thicknesses of linen 
canvas stitched together in a zig-zag fashion through the center 
to prevent its breaking. If linen canvas is used, cut about a half 
inch wider than pattern all around. Dampen and press it per- 
fectly dry, care being taken not to change the shape. Trim off 
the collar the exact size of pattern. The edges must be even, as 
the slightest defect will show on the outside when the collar is 
finished. If opened in front, it is best to have the collar straight 
at that part and bias in the back, as it prevents the ends streich- 
ing. The material and the canvas must be cut the same grain. 
Cut the material the same as the canvas, allowing one-half inch 
all around. The lining or facing, which must be of some soft 
material, silk usually being used, is cut the same size as material. 
The material is basted on the foundation, the upper and lower 
edges turned over to the inside and catstitched to hold in place. 
Care must be taken to draw the material very smooth and even 
over the foundation. Stretch the collar a little at lower edge to 
make it fit the neck. Pin evenly to neck of dress. When 
collar is adjusted, both ends of the material are turned in, and 
the corners finished. Sew on three small hooks a quarter of an 
inch from the edge on the right end, and the eyes on the opposite 
side, to correspond, letting them extend an eighth of an inch 
beyond the end. Backstitch the collar on from inside, about an 
eighth of an inch beyond edge, and face with silk or soft material. 

Draught of Collar Opening at the Back*— To draught a collar 
opening at the back, draw an oblong 3 inches by 7 inches. 
Measure up on left hand line 2 inches. Measure up on right 
hand i ^ inches. Draw two parallel curves from the lower left 
hand corner and the 2 inch point to the upper right hand corner 
and the i}^ inch point. Measure back i inch on the upper curve 
from the upper right hand corner, and from this point to i}4 inch 
point draw a straight line, which is the back of collar. 

Cutting, Fitting and Finishing Collars opening at the Back.— 

Collars opening at the back are draughted with more curve at the 



13 

center of front and without a seam. If stiff canvas is used, it may 
be cut either straight or bias in front. If cut from linen canvas, 
there should be two thicknesses cut bias, stitched together, 
dampened and pressed, and, if necessary, stretched a little at the 
lower edge to fit the neck. In cutting the material for the outside 
of the collar, care must be taken to have the grain of the material 
at the front of the collar the same as it is in vest or yoke, where 
the collar joins the waist at front. If to be made of a different 
material from the vest or yoke, the usual rule may be followed of 
cutting the material the same as lining. 

In cutting a collar of striped material, never use it on the bias, 
as the two ends of the collar w^ould be unlike. An even plaid may 
be cut bias, but not an uneven one. If the vest or yoke has the 
stripe or plaid straight the collar must be cut straight in front. 
The ends of the collar will then be alike, but slightly bias. If 
the lines of the stripe or plaid run to meet at a point in the center 
of vest or yoke, have the front of the collar wnth lines meeting in 
a point, using a seam. The ends of collar wnll still be alike, 
but nearly straight. This rule should also be followed in placing 
lines of trimming on collars, as well as in lines of stripe or plaid. 

To Cut a True Bias.— Place a length-wise straight on a cross- 
wise straight, and cut through the folded edge, or fold the goods 
so that the warp and w^oof threads are parallel to each other, and 
cut through the folded edge. 

To Cut a Choice Bias.— With twilled material, there is a choice 
of two true bias folds. The folded edge where the twill runs at 
right angles to the edge, instead of parallel, is considered the 
choice bias, because the twill does not interfere wdth the handling 
of the material. It folds more easily, and edges may be turned 
more evenly than when the twill runs parallel or nearly so. In 
cutting folds, etc., from materials that have no right or wrong 
side (as gros-grain silk) care should be taken to cut from the 
same bias in order to keep the grain running in the same direction. 
When sewing bias folds together, have the grain of the cloth the 
same at all the seams. To keep the edges even when the folds 
are seamed together, let the edges lap each other just the width of 
the seam. 



Bastingf, Blindstitching and Pressing Hems. — Baste first 
turning j{ inch with j^l inch stitch. Turn hem the required 
width b}^ measuring. Baste ^ inch below the fold, and again at 
lower edge of hem. This makes three rows of basting which is 
necessar}^ to hold hem in place. Blindstitch the hem with split 
sewing silk. Take up a thread of the under side, run the needle 
through the hem, showing no stitches on right side. Press hems 
on the wrong side, placing a piece of thin material over the hem 
to prevent glossing, being careful not to use too hot an iron. 



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